The International Flying Dutchman Class British Section has for some time been aware of a need for a manual to provide information about all aspects of owning and sailing an FD.
The Class book produced in 1992 gives an excellent historical record of the Class and provides profiles of many people who have been or are directly involved in the International Organisation. I see this manual as an extension to the Class book and acting rather like the "owner's" Manual" for a motor car."
The items covered are:
| 1. | Class History and Organisation | |
| 2. | Class Rules, the ones to look out for | |
| 3. | Setting up the rig | |
| 4. | Crewing tips | |
| 5. | Hull and sail choices | |
| 6. | Layout of fittings and ropes. |
I hope that the information in the manual will be of use to both new and long standing members of the Flying Dutchman Class.
There are contributions from several members of the British Section Committee each drawing from their experience of the time they have spent with the Class both on and off the water. I would like to thank them all very much for the time and effort that they have put in to help produce this manual.
It was in the late 40's that the IYRU instigated a new modern 2-man international dinghy, the Tornado. She was not a success as there was no leap forward compared to the existing pre-war classes.
The Royal Loosdrecht Yacht Club, Conrad Gulcher's club, obtained half a dozen Tornados and found them very uninspiring to say the least! Conrad had always been very interested in dinghy sailing and had collected any documentation connected with it. Pre-war he had enjoyed some international sailing in Germany and the UK and he had made many friends in the dinghy sailing scene. He imagined that with modern construction methods, moulded ply, a better boat could be constructed.
Being an Insurance Broker and not a designer he enlisted the help of Uus Van Essen, a naval architect and measures for the Dutch Yacht Federation. They made a preliminary design and early in September 1951 it was sent to 30 top class helmsmen in Europe including Bossom (Z), John Cahmier (K), Charles Curry (K), Manfried Curry (G), Ferry Laagwater (H),Stewart Morris (K), Morits Skaugen (N) and Shorty Trimingham (KZB), with the request to comment within two weeks.
The measurements were similar to the 15m2 Wanderjolle of mid-European lakes and popular Flying Fifteen. By the end of September 23 responses had been returned with sufficient new and sound ideas to redesign the boat.
Mr. Loeff, chairman of the CBC, was prepared to discuss the boat at the November meeting of the IYRU, only when he had seen her sail! This was hardly feasible but Conrad had the mould and hull built in one week and the boat finished in another! Complete with the Tornado rig it took to the water against the 12m2 Sharpie and Tornado at Loosdrecht one week before the IYRU meetings and Mr Loeff took the plans to the IYRU for discussion.
Then it was decided to hold trials in the summer of 1952 in Holland and the name was born, suggested by Sir Peter Scott, the then president of the IYRU, the Flying Dutchman.
The trials were held on the Loodrecht lakes and on the open water of the Zuiderzee at Muiden. 17 boats participated, some especially designed like the Osprey and Typhoon, others were existing classes including Hornet, Caneton, Thistle, Sharpie, Rennjolle etc.
The results were clear and the FD was adopted however with the limitation "for continental lakes only" and another set of trials was set up for 1953 at La Baule on the open sea.
In the mean time the small job was replaced with the Genoa and a trapeze was added.
At La Baule there were again specially designed boats such as the Coronet, a smaller version of which later became the 505. Off the wind the Coronet with her bigger spinnaker and mainsail was faster (this is not just a recent problem!) but on the wind the FD won.
It was clear that the FD did very well on the open sea and the "lakes" limitation was lifted. The Class started to blossom thanks to the promotional activities of Conrad through the Bulletin and a well structured Class Organisation.
By the 60's there were fleets in all sorts of places such as the Lebanon, 25 in Morocco, 20 in Portuguese East Africa, Argentina, Venezuela, Thailand, apart from those in Europe, North America, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand.
In 1956 the FD participated (Conrad and Bob Boeschoten) in the cross- channel race from Folkestone to Boulogne and was the fastest two-man dinghy in the race!
In 1957 the FD was selected to replace the Sharpie at the 1960 Olympic Games in Naples. In 1959 The Class President Slotty Dawes was presented a cup for the FD Week. The Week, with its unlimited number of boats were allowed from each country, this proved very successful. The Week was very competitive whilst remaining friendly, competitors lent each other sails! (no equipment limitation in those days!) and was well supported, in 1965 126 boats from 24 nations took part.
The FD rules were tailored to have one design speed factors i.e. hull shape and weight, foil shapes and sails restricted and the rest left open to encourage development. As new ideas have evolved they have often been taken up by other classes e.g. trapeze, spinnaker chute, double floor construction, windows in sails and numerous developments in fittings and even personal sail numbers.
The one design was guaranteed by the very simple, and consequently cheap and easily repeatable measurement system defined by Uss van Essen and born of his experiences as professional KNWV measurer.
Many well known yachtsman have had a spell in the FD for example Mark Bethwaite, the Diesch pothers, Paul Elvestrom, Hans Foch, Ben Lexcen, Cam Lewis, Peder Lunde, Stewart Morris, Keith Musto, Andre Nelis, Yves and Marc Pajot, Rodney Pattison, Ralph Roberts, Bruno Trouble, Ted Turner, Mike Macnamara, John Loveday, Jo Richards, Roger Yeoman, Will Henderson, Peter White, Pat Blake, Jon Turner and David Wilkins to name but a few.
Like many classes over the last few years there has been a decline in the active Flying Dutchman sailors but this has been reversed and the class is growing again and will remain the ultimate test of all the skills of dinghy sailing.
What is the IFDCO?
IFDCO is an International organisation, constituted in Holland as a Dutch Foundation. It is regulated in accordance with the IFDCO Foundation Rules and Bylaws which can only be changed with the approval of the IFDCO General Committee. The Foundation Rules and Bylaws are published in the FD Class Book.
Why does IFDCO exist?
The object of IFDCO is to promote, develop and coordinate international FD competitive sailing throughout the world under uniform rules, in cooperation with the International Yacht Racing Union and the National FD Class Associations.
How does IFDCO function?
Each of the main areas of activity are carried out under the control of a member of the IFDCO Executive Committee.
The following sub-committees have been formed to provide an opportunity for those interested in supporting the international class organisation and to provide guidance to the IFDCO General Committee:
Championship Organisation Committee
Responsible for making recommendations on Championship venues, developing IFDCO Sailing Instructions, communicating with organisers of FD World and Continental Championships and advising International Juries on FD Class matters.
Technical Development Committee
Responsible for making recommendations on Championship venues, developing IFDCO Sailing Instruction, communicating with organisers of FD World and Continental Championships and advising International Juries on FD Class matters.
Measurement Committee
Responsible for enforcing FD Class Rules and IYRU Measurement rules, proposing changes to class rules to protect the one design nature of the Class, encouraging the appointment of qualified FD measurers and communicating with builders, sail makers and equipment manufacturers.
Promotion Committee
Responsible for preparing plans to develop FD sailing in countries sailing the FD and establishing FD Class Associations in new countries, communicating with National FD Development managers and producing promotional material for international use, such as Class Book, FD Brochure, car stickers and FD Videos.
Finance Committee
Estimating and planning future sources of Income, establishing guidelines for expenditure and advising on financial matters.
So how does the IFDCO fund all these activities?
Nearly all the work performed for the IFDCO is carried out on a voluntary basis. FD sailors all around the world benefit from the dedicated services of all the members of the IFDCO General Committee and sub-committees, the members of National FD Class Association committees, National Sailing Authorities, sailing clubs and the IYRU, all of whom strive hard to ensure that it is possible to race.
The main expenditure incurred by the IFDCO is on communications:- postage, fax, telephone, travel to meetings, printing and distribution of the FD Bulletin and World Ranking List.
This is funded primarily by annual IFDCO membership dues. In addition a small part of the funding is obtained from sail buttons and a part of the International Class Fee paid on new FDs.
How can I help?
Contact your National FD Class Association, pay your subscription, take as many people sailing in an FD as possible, show the FD video at your club, write articles about FD sailing for your local press and National yachting magazines, tell your local radio station about FD events, arrange regattas and social events at your club. If you have any specialist or have contact with potential sponsors and would like to help please let IFDCO know.
HAPPY SAILING!
Here is a detailed selection of sails from which you may select any number of combinations to power your Flying Dutchman. You too can become an expert quoting codes to friends in the bar!
SAIL CODE PURPOSE REMARKSNotes:
Dan
Main All round Needs Proctor/Z spar
Genoa X-2 Bft 0-4
X-3 Bft 0-6 Good all rounder
X-4 Bft 4+
Spinnaker All round
Diamond
Main DMU 9/10 All round 10 is fuller than 9
Genoa DG1-4 Bft 0-4 Leech 5.3-5.05m 3 cringle
DG2-7 Smooth water 3-6
Choopy sea Bft 4 Leech 5.25-5.0m 3 cringle
Spinnaker DC3 All round/reacher Silicone finish
Hyde
Main 1.5C+ All round/good gusts Needs little trimming
2D Smooth water - all round
Waves Bft 3+ Flat
2E Powerful/heavy crews Needs good mast control
Genoa 1A Bft 0-4
1B Bft 0-4 Light cloth
1C+ Bft 0-4 (min rake) 3 cringles
1CR+ Bft 3-6 3 cringles. Rake 4-18cm
2H Medium-heavy
"compensator"
2CR+ (3.8oz) Bft 3-6 Rake + Better than 1CR+, points+
2CR+ (4.5oz) Bft 3-6 Rake+ Long laster in strong wind
SAIL CODE PURPOSE REMARKS
Spinnaker 2B Polyant All round
2B HST 22 All round
2B Stabilcote Light winds Not easy in chute
North
Main LM1 All round For Z Spar
Genoa LM3 (Fogh) Bft0-4 Good in chop 3 cringles
MH2 (Fogh) Bft 4+ Max rake, multi cringles
K1 (Wagner) Max Bft 4 Normal rake, 3 cringles
KRR(Wagner) All round Rake +, 2 cringles
Spinnaker True radial (F) All round .75 oz
Tr rad light Light winds Leeches .75oz, mid .50oz
M2 (Wagner) All round
Crosscut, good in chute
Vogel Meier
Main AB9Z Light medium
CD4 Medium+
P7 All round
Genoa PLa All round
L1 Light
Ideas for improving the buoyancy of boats with half double bottoms.
These ideas have been incorporated into FD K327 as a result of many capsizes both on the sea and on inland waters where the boat inverted with the stern low in the water and the bow high, becoming even higher as the boat came through 90o to lie on its side.
Mod A:
Fit buoyancy bag across stern under after deck. Fix webbing strap fittings/fixings so that the bag is held firmly to underside of deck - not to the floor of the boat - so when inverted maximum buoyancy is obtained.
Mod B:
Fit buoyancy bag 48 in. long under the foredeck along the centreline of the boat between the mast and the genoa furler, again fix it firmly to the deck not the floor.
Mod C:
Make up poly-propylene line with large spliced eye at both ends, it needs to be about 3 m long and 12 mm in diameter. Secure a plastic ball (about 3 in. diameter) in the middle of the line, it must be able to" pass through the eyes. When capsized secure line around spoud at deck level, lie back and heave!
As the boat capsizes try to release the kicking strap and genoa sheet as well as the mainsheet to reduce the under water drag when righting the boat. If you have the spinnaker up when you go in pull it down with the boat on its side.
For the most part, crewing in an FD is little difference to any other trapeze dinghy. However, there are one or two things about an FD which call for some slightly different techniques which may not be immediately apparent to a newcomer. In particular these are the sheer size of the genoa and the continuous trapeze system.
The two are somewhat connected, in that the continuous trapeze makes dealing with the great length of the genoa sheets much more practical than with the more conventional trapeze systems.
The main difficulties encountered in the front end of the FD are uncleating the genoa under load, avoiding getting the genoa sheets back in the cleat accidentally during a tack, and getting on and off the continuous trapeze successfully during a tack or gybe.
All FD crews have their own ways of dealing with these problems, and I would certainly never claim mine to be the best or to be perfect by maybe they will help someone to get round the course better than they do now!
Continuous Trapeze:
There are two main problems encountered with the continuous trapeze:
1. Not getting on to the hook properly, when going out. i.e. going out with your weight on the elastic. SPLOSH!
2. Not getting free of the old hook as you go into a tack or a gybe. Most embarrassing in gybes as the boom and leeward trapeze wire will propel you to leeward navel first!
The continuous trapeze works best when you are trapezing low because your weight comes off the trapeze hook easily when you are in the boat during a tack or gybe. This makes it least likely that you will suffer from problem 2 and will give you a sporting chance of avoiding problem 1 as well.
Of course, the trend in trapezing in other boats these days is to stay higher and this does allow you to move in and out of the boat very smoothly. I suggest that you need to do this in FD's too in light airs but then you can watch out carefully on the tacks and gybes and ensure that you do not get caught up or go out on the elastic.
Coming in - as with most trapeze boats, you want to come in back leg first, sheet in hand, front hand on the handle or trapeze hook. When tacking, once your weight is on the deck, tip the trapeze hook down with your front hand to ensure that the gear disconnects properly.
On the gybe it is always worth pushing the middle of the continuous trapeze elastic down whilst in the boat, to ensure that you have not got stuck on the old windward hook.
Going out- ensure that your weight goes on to the hook properly before you commit yourself! This can feel a bit like dropping deep over the side of the boat, if you are trapezing low, but it does ensure that you do not get dropped in the drink!
In light airs, of course, it is easier going in and out and balancing the boat with the trapeze higher. However, do not forget that this does prevent the trapeze changing sides so smoothly, you just have to keep an eye on things. Just top the old windward trapeze hook down with your forward hand once you are on the deck, do not get too low or too far adrift in the boat during the tack and check that the trapeze gear comes across with you and slips on to the hook on the new side.
Height Adjustment With the event of genoas with multiple clews it becomes quite common to have height adjustment both above and below the continuous trapeze system. Use the adjustment above the hooks to put the trapeze gear at the right height above the deck for the clew position you are using at the time. Use the adjustment that is between the slider and your harness to adjust your height on the way around the course i.e. vary low for flat out trapezing to windward, higher for downwind so that you can move your weight around easily and stay clear of the water, and higher also for light airs so that you can move in and out more smoothly.
I usually adjust things so that the hook and elastic are about 14-15 inches above the deck. By trial and error you will find out what works best for you.
Uncleat the Genoa!
The fastest way to capsize and FD is to tack with the genoa sheet in the cleat! I know, I've done it lots of times! It is really important, therefore, to be sure that you get the sheet uncleated and do not accidentally put it back in the clear during the tack.
It is quite difficult to uncleat the genoa whilst it is fully loaded up. The most common way is to use the weight of the sheet to flick it out of the cleat whilst you are still on the trapeze. If you miss that chance, you may have trouble until the loads comes off the sail as the boat comes head to wind.
The safest technique, therefore, it to keep the fall of the sheet ahead of your feet, flick the sheet to uncleat whilst still out on the wire and then release the sheet completely on to the on to the double bottom forward of your feet as or before you come in off the trapeze. THEN...
Sheet In
Pick up the sheet again as you cross the boat to start pulling the genoa in on the new tack. Get the sail most of the way in as the boat comes round on to the course and then get out on the trapeze as the load comes on. You should just have about a foot of sheet to finally pull in and trim once you are on the trapeze, and you then have the luxury of having your legs to help with the last pull!
Some extra tips:
Do not forget, even in the heat of the moment, that most FD genoa cleats undo with a downwards flick, NOT upward like a conventional dinghy. These upside down cleats do mean that it is very easy for the sheet to recleat itself during a tack if you hold the sheet in you hand as you come in off the wire. Safest thing is to uncleat, let go of the sheet, and then come in. Keeping the fall of the genoa sheets ahead of your feet will reduce the chances of your "stepping into the sheets" and getting yourself and the sheets tangled with the usual consequences!
If your boat is fitted with ratchet blocks on the genoa sheets, turn them OFF! They do not allow the sheets to run out quickly and smoothly enough during the tacks. Get them on the spinnaker though, especially with the new spinnaker!
The FD is a complex and powerful dinghy and getting the boat set up correctly for the prevailing conditions makes all the difference between the boat flying along and its being a pig to sail, especially to windward.
It is important, therefore, that the significant controls are readily adjustable by the helmsman whilst sailing, so that he can fine tune the rig without loosing way or control.
Of course, all the usual boat turning and preparation rules apply to the FD as to any other performance dinghy. Get the centreboard and rudder vertical and in line; get the mast central and upright in the boat; make the mast a tight fit in the step and partners etc. However some aspects of the FD are a bit special so try this way of sorting boat out and getting set for the race.
Set up the genoa:
The most important control of an FD is the genoa halyard, controlling the mast rake. This needs the purchase of at least 24:1 led to either side of the boat for the helmsman to adjust while hiking. A courser adjustment, say 6:1, is also ideal for changing between the different clew attachment positions available in modern genoas.
We use a 6:1 purchase on the back face of the mast which hooks up to the genoa halyard. One end of this goes directly to a clam-cleat for the course adjustment and this marked with a position for each clew.
The other end goes to 4:1 purchase running along the boats centreline and led to each side. Total purchase available, 4 x 6 = 24:1.
Because the genoas are designed to fill the triangle made up by the tack, halyard and sheet block positions completely, the amount that the genoa leech twists open has to be controlled by the mast rake.
If the mast is too upright (halyard too tight) the genoa leech is too closed and too close to the mainsail. This maked the boat overpowered, heel a lot, backwind the mainsail and go SLOW!
Having too much rake (halyard eased too much) is not as disastrous but the genoa leech will be too open, the boat underpowered and it will not point as high as the opposition.
Unfortunately, not all sailmakers use the same genoa dimensions, so the correct rake for a given set of conditions will vary from genoa to genoa.
The window position near the spreader height in modern mainsails is a great help in judging whether the genoa leech is setting correctly.
Having established the correct rake for the wind and sea conditions, you need to take up the slack and tension the spouds, so the helmsman also needs to be able to adjust these from his steering position. Again a total of 24:1 purchase led to each side seems to be about right.
Exactly how much spoud tension is required will depend on the mast and sails that are being used. Of course, you should also remember that the older boats cannot withstand the tensions used on some of the modern ones. At least take up the slack that you can see in the leeward spoud when sailing to windward.
Genoas with a very fine angle of attach at the luff need no more than this, but fuller fronted sails may need quite a lot more spoud tension if you are not going to lose pointing ability. Vogel Meier, Lucas and Velus Ullman genoas tend to fit in the first group, whilst Hyde, Diamond and Dan generally need more tension.
Choosing the Clew Position
Which clew to use depends of the wind strength. There is no doubt that raking the whole rig aft more as the wind gets stronger IS FAST! Of course, having chosen the clew position, you then have to adjust the rake further to set up the correct amount of genoa leech twist, with the sheets attached at that point.
When you change from one clew to another, the fore and aft position of the centreboard and the lower spoud tension, in particular will also need to be altered.
If the centreboard position is wrong the boat will be unbalanced and hard to steer. Forgetting to adjust the lowers will either allow the mast to bend too much or could invert it, either of which could lead to a broken mast!
| As a rough guide use: | Clew 1 — 0 to 12 knots | ||
| Clew 2 — 10 to 16 knots | |||
| Clew 3 — 15 to 20 knots | |||
| Clew 4 — 20+ knots |
Modern boats do have some vertical adjustment for the genoa sheet turning blocks. These enable a certain amount of adjustment of the genoa leech without altering mast rake. This can be very useful in gusty conditions so that the boat can be set up with maximum power for the lulls and the genoa leads eased up comparatively easily in the gusts.
When up they also enable the rig to be set more upright in the lightest winds, which again seems to be faster and to give the helmsman a bit more feel in those conditions.
Not having this extra adjustment on your boat is not the end of the world by any means, but they can be a great help.
The Mast and Mainsail
Like any dinghy, the FD's mast needs to be tuned to suit the mainsail you are using. However, with spreader adjustment and lower spouds which support the mast at gooseneck height, even quite flexible mast sections can be held pretty straight fore and aft if necessary. This has encalbed us to use one mainsail throughout the wind range where before a special heavy mainsail was needed to cope with the inevitable mast bend.
It is important to keep sideways mast bend to a minimum even in strong winds. The side bend is controlled by a combination of spreader length and spoud tension. The less rig tension you see, the longer spreaders you will need. The softer your mast section sideways, the more critical this combination of control will be, as it will bend more easily under the compression loads of the rig and be more difficult to keep "in" column"."
Keeping the mast straight fore and aft, especially with a flexible section, may make it prone to inversion due to the compression load of the spinnaker pole on the close reaches. This has led to the use of some basic prebending systems at decklevel which the helmsman can pull on for the reaching legs, or in very light airs when a little prebend can help the mainsail leech to open.
The Proctor Nimbus and Superspar M7 are the most flexible of the currently popular sections, and the Proctor E is a bit stiffer and the Superspar M5 the stiffest used in top competition these days. The Proctor Gamma is considered a bit of a tree trunk but will still be seen giving good service on some boats. There are also successful Z spar and Needlespar masts around but it is best to check exactly which section is being used.
You have probably realised that the lower spouds are very important in controlling the mast bend. You need at least 8:1 purchase on these, probably 12:1 is more common and easier to adjust in use.
The kicking strap or vang is not such a powerful control on the FD. This because FD sailors generally use the mainsheet to control mainsail twist when sailing to windward, playing the traveler continually. In these circumstances the vang is usually overridden by the mainsheet, but it is important downwind. 8:1 will do for the kicker but you need to be able to adjust it easily.
Centreboard Position
As you change from using one clew position to another the rake changes the fore and aft position of the Centre of Effort of the rig quite dramatically. It is essential to move the Centre of Lateral resistance in order to balance this effect, and this means moving the Centreboard pivot fore and aft or raising the board, which pivots it further back.
Using Clew 1, the board needs to be as far aft as will allow it still to be raised into the box, or maybe 15mm further back. Changing to Clew 2, move the pivot aft 75-100mm, Clew 3 90-150mm, above that rake the board aft to reduce the area as well. It is generally felt that the board need to go further aft in waves compared with flat water settings.
DO NOT FORGET to move the centreboard forward again before you go ashore, otherwise you cannot get it into the box and the boat or board or both will be damaged.
We are now getting to the point where you can go out and practice setting the boat up for difference conditions. A turning partner is ideal, but you can usually sail against another boat before a race if you are out in the racing area good and early, (which of course you always are!).
In general, if you are pointing below other boats the genoa leech is possibly too open (too much rake); but if you can go high but are overpowered and slow the slot is too closed (mast too upright).
Other tips include watching for diagonal creased from mainsail clew to the lower part of the mast, which shows that the lowers are too slack.
So, here is the order for setting the boat up:
| 1. | Choose clew position | |
| 2. | Set course genoa halyard setting | |
| 3. | Set approximate lowers tension (after launching) | |
| 4. | Move centreboard aft if necessary | |
| 5. | Take up slack in spouds sail to windward | |
| 6. | Fine tune the genoa halyard | |
| 7. | Tension spouds | |
| 8. | Set mainsheet tension | |
| 9. | Tension cunningham | |
| 10. | Check lowers, centreboard position | |
| 11. | GO VERY FAST | |
| 12. | WIN (but most of all have lots of FUN!) |
| Winchester Office | ||
| Scott-White & Hookins | Tel: (01962)841328 | |
| Harman House, Andover Road | Fax: (01962)844855 | |
| Winchester SO23 7BS | Email: win@swh.co.uk (John Berry — GBR342) |